Betel Nut in Thailand

We visited Newt's Aunt Ontang and Uncle Rian a few times in December 2007. During one of our visits, we watched Aunt Ontang prepare her "betel nut" chew mixture. Chewing betel nut is a custom mostly (from my unscientific observation) found in the rural parts of Thailand, and usually amongst the older women. I doubt that many city residents indulge, as chewing stains the teeth a dark color, and gives the gums a reddish tinge (we didn't see these "markers" in Bangkok, for example, but saw a couple of instances in Ubon). Chewing betel nut is said to be mildly stimulating (less than smoking tobacco, but more than strong coffee). Some men do chew, but they are few, older, and in the farming areas.

The betel nut is a palm nut. When the nut is red, it is ripe. The photo shows Lawan using a "naak," which is a purpose-made betel nut cutter; the cutting action is like that of an gardener's anvil pruner. This betel nut has a green outside husk, so it is slightly under-ripe, which makes for a softer nut.


Aunt Ontang's betel nut set (or "paan khan maak") actually doesn't reside on a tray (a "paan") but in the clear plastic purse in the left of the photo. If you zoom into the purse, you'll see the bit of reddish brown bark, which is called "sisiet," and can be part of the chew mixture. Newt said that the "sisiet" can be pounded or hammered to make it more chewable (?!). Bits of wood are also used in some chew mixes--the wood is called "gan coon."

Ontang is holding a small metal-and-ceramic container--inside this container is lime, which is usually made from oyster shells, or seashells, that are crushed and then heated. The lime is supposed to intensify the betel nut's effect. The container has a brass cap (partially obscured, sitting on the mat), and a matchstick-like spreader (the "fat toothpick") that fits into the "eye" fitting on the side.

Here, Ontang uses the tubular spreader to spread some lime on a "bye pu" leaf ("bye" is Thai for "leaf"). Bye pu is almost always part of the chew mixture, and can also be chewed alone. The leaf is quite large, about hand-size when unfolded.

So, with a bit of betel nut, some bye pu leaf with lime, and a few slivers of sisiet, Aunt Ontang can settle in for several minutes of mild stimulation. It seems like a lot more effort than brewing a pot of coffee, but perhaps the end product is worth it. It does give Ontang something to do while sitting and talking, and it seems to relax her.

For his part, Uncle Rian prefers to roll his own cigarettes, using Thai tobacco and local rolling paper, all ignited with a Bic-style lighter stamped "Thailand." Newt says that her mother grew tobacco, and that today many Isan farmers still grow tobacco for their own use.

Now, there are some antique, fantastically ornate and decorated betel nut "sets" that we've seen in Thai museums. These include stemmed trays with several containers made of precious metal, and artfully engraved cutters and other tools--obviously made for royalty or the very wealthy. So at one time, perhaps long ago, betel nut chewing must have popular with Thai high society. However, we haven't seen evidence, or read anything which suggests that chewing betel nut is presently a past time for the upper class (though collecting those elaborate betel nut sets would be a neat hobby).

That is our take on chewing betel nut in Thailand.

Thung Si Meuang Park, Ubon Ratchathani

Thung Si Meuang Park is located in the south central part of the city, and seems to be a popular gathering place--especially in the evening.

This photo shows the "San Lak Meuang" (a temple-like structure with a center spire), which houses the "Lak Meuang" which is the pillar that legend says protects Ubon. The structure sits between the park and the Ubon National Museum.

Near the center of the park sits this stucco or concrete replica of an elaborately carved votive (or prayer) candle. The park also hosts Ubon's annual Candle Festival, where gigantic, high-relief wax candles are featured. The Festival--"Hae Tien" in Thai--is part of the city's celebration of Khao Phansa, which is likewise the beginning of the Buddhist Lent, when most monks go into retreat for the rainy season. The festival is in July--in 2008, Khao Phansa will fall on July 18 (though I don't know if the Candle Festival in precisely on this date also).

These photos was taken on December 4, 2007...the covered tables are part of the preparations for the December 5th King's Birthday Celebration.

Because Thung Si Meuang Park is so expansive, it is the natural location for community celebrations.

This large stage was being installed for the King's Birthday celebration. The worker in the lower left is helping to put up a large banner that says "Song Pra Ja Rueng" or "Long Live the King." The King is well loved by the Thai people--his photograph is in most homes, businesses, governmental offices, and even in many temples. He was released from the hospital in Bangkok during our visit (December 2007--he had suffered from a blood circulation blockage), and many people throughout the country wore yellow in his honor. Yellow is "his color" as it (I think) represents the day of the week on which he was born.

Later in December 2007, the King went to visit his older sister, HRH Princess Galyani Vadhana, who was in the hospital getting treatment for abdominal cancer. During his visit, the King wore a pink shirt to honor his sister the Princess. After that, pink shirts became the rage in Thailand.

Most unfortunately, Princess Galyani passed away on January 2, 2008. The Princess was well loved and respected as a teacher, and also for her charity work, and work on environmental and medical care issues.

Getting back to the subject of Thung Si Meuang Park...here is our nephew, See (Rasta's son) on the rowing machine, one of the several exercise contraptions available in the park--all of these machines are very sturdy, and are well-used in the evenings. To See's right are the inside walking path, and the outside jogging path--these paths encircle the park (you will find walkers on the jogging path, though, as the walking path disappears in places). There are also some lighted basketball courts, and 2 aerobic exercise/dance stages, where instructors lead classes (it seems to be free--we didn't see anyone collecting fees).

On the promenade between San Lak Meuang and the park, young teens play badminton, and in some of the larger open area, boys kick around soccer balls (there doesn't seem to be a regulation-sized soccer field, though, within the park).

The perimeter of the park has a partial moat, where the water also functions as a fish pond. There is a neat, mechanical aerator that locals say was invented, or suggested, by the King--the extra oxygen in the water promotes fish health and growth. There is also some interesting traditional and modern statuary within the park.

Just yards from the park is the Midnight market, where you can get a snack, meal, or drink (well, beer, at least) at very reasonable prices.

All said, Thung Si Meuang is a great place to escape the heat, or hotel air conditioning, and be around your fellow Ubon residents. We happily visited the park during most of the evenings we were in Ubon Ratchathani. If you'd like to see more of the park, please visit:

http://picasaweb.google.com/NewtSea

Ubon Ratchathani National Museum

5 December 2007. The Ubon Ratchathani National Museum is in a beautiful building—wooden floors, a central atrium (with garden), off-white stucco exterior, and red diamond-tile roof. Built in 1918, it used to be Ubon’s City Hall, but was later restored by Ubon's Fine Arts Dept., and HRH Princess Sirindhorn inaugurated it as a museum in 1989.

The back entrance to Ubon Ratchathani's National Museum faces Thung Sri Muang Park, and is normally locked. The main entrance faces Khuan Thani Road. The museum is closed on Monday and Tuesday. No shoes past the information counter.

Photos are not allowed within the museum itself (there is a "no cameras" icon on the left past the ticket/information counter). We didn't see that sign, as we proceeded straight ahead to a "wat" gallery, which included this seated Buddha image. The statue is finely made, with engraving on the arms and chest. The incense and candles were never lighted, so we guess is a "display" gallery.

The display also included another bronze seated Buddha statue on a carved and inlaid, gilt-decorated altar, or table. That image is also very finely made. This gallery has a most unusual wall-hanging...a tapestry that winds high around the 4 walls, even overlapping a bit at the end. It is gorgeous, but so high up, it's difficult to examine closely.

In this photo, our nephew,"See" (Rasta's son) is beside a bronze kettle drum, that dates to 2000 - 2500 years ago. I had to look twice at the placard--but it is truly thousands of years old! In workmanship, it is the equal of many artifacts that accompany the King Tutankhamun ("King Tut") Exhibition traveling around the USA [that's "King Tut and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs"]. The drum was found in Ubon.

In the Ubon gallery, there are informational "text" placards, and a replica of the scripture hall (the actual library is much more elaborate, and located at Wat Thung Sri Muang, 3 blocks away). There is also a "geology gallery" that includes some neat rock and semi-precious stone samples.

One of our favorites is the "pre-history gallery" (where the bronze drum resides). Here are some neat, ancient pots and pot shards. A huge painted pot (mainly intact, and found in Ubon) dates to 2000 - 3000 years old--the paint decoration has faded, but is still visible.

Also on display is a unique "Ardhanarisvara," a stone carved figure of Siva mixed with Uma--it dates to the 9th century, and is extremely rare (a picture of the figure is on the museum brochure, as is the bronze kettle drum). A docent sees the camera flash, and tells us of the "no pictures" policy, so we stow the camera until we're outside. We continue to the gallery on cloth making, and then folk music (where a high-quality recording can be played).


At the exterior display area, See stands in front of an antique road grader. We tell him that John Deere, where our son (his cousin) works, at one time made even more massive road graders, and he is visibly impressed.

The exterior pavilion also has an antique wooden boat on display.


This photo is of a "sema"--a stone border or boundary marker; a couple sema are on display. This sema depicts the "leaf'" shape that gives it its name (note the stylized carved center stem).

All-in-all, the Ubon Ratchathani National Museum, while small, gives a nice overview of the area's history. Some of its holdings are remarkable, and showcase world-class craftmanship.

A few more photos are at our web album at this location:
http://picasaweb.google.com/NewtSea/UbonRatchathaniNationalMuseum

If you enjoy museums, we'd also recommend the Ubon Cultural Center's exhibits (across from Rajabhat University; many of the Cultural Center's historical placards are in English and Thai).