Wat Ban Pak Sang, Khemerat

12 December 2007. We squeezed in a short visit to the gleaming "Wat Ban Pak Sang," which (like Wat Po) lies alongside the Mekong River in Khemerat. While growing up in the area, Newt (like hundreds or thousands of other schoolkids--teens--her age) remembers dancing on the temple grounds during fundraisers. The bot, with its marvelous wall protected by elephants and naga, gleams under new paint, fresh gilt decorations, recently carved door and window panels, and new marble exterior floors. Construction is still underway, and the interior (closed while we were there) must be extraordinary.

It's worth a trip just to see how crisply and deeply those teak door panels can be carved. I wonder how the craftsmen who do this work are trained...are techniques and skills passed from parent to child/apprentice? Or are there woodworking schools where students study and practice for years? Regardless, the results are stunning.

The sala wat is more rambling, and has a much older feel. There is a profusion of that exotic "string art," which seems both ornamental and somehow spiritual. There is a lot of new marble and old statuary. Ancient-looking Buddha images and old gongs are situated next to those wierd, electronic LED fortune-telling machines (the traditional and modern coming, or clashing, together). We're struck by this grouping of "monks holding alms bowls." Newt says this display is for "tak baht," where we can gain merit by making coin donations into the offering bowls.


The seated Buddha on the raised platform in the sala wat is said to have a mysteriously miraculous past. Was it found near the Mekong River, and carried by villagers here to the temple? Was a solid gold smaller Buddha found hidden within a carved, wooden Buddha near the same area? How much of what we were told, and heard or overheard, is accurate? In any case, the Buddha statue, upon which the sisters and Putaporn apply gold leaf, does have a certain presence, and gravity.

The Mekong River ("Mae Nam Kong") is especially beautiful around the Wat area. Look straight across the river, we can see a rural/modern Laos village just on the treeline. Looking right, downriver, is this rock outcropping--we can see where the current swirls, and where fish probably seek shelter and food.

Wat Ban Pak Sang, in Khemerat, is a wonderful mix of the old and new, and we're glad to have spent some time here. We got to talk with the attending monk, and received a sprinkling of holy water (Sue is given a bottle of this water, which she later forgets in the hotel room). Newt can compare her childhood memories with the reality (and changes) she sees before her. We are refreshed and upbeat, enroute to our next adventure.

Khemerat School, Khemerat

12 December 2007, Newt attended Khemerat school for 3 years as a pre-teen. While we didn't have an opportunity for a tour and proper visit, it was exciting to just observe the school and youngsters, and note the changes from decades past. The sign reads "Rong Rian Khemerat" which translates to "Khemerat School." This is a different sign from when Newt was a student.

The main school building is the wooden two-story structure. When Newt was a student, it contained only classrooms, and was a simple, long rectangular building. The small "L" addition on the right side is a change, and may house administrative space. Also, the wooden shelters in front of the school building, and the playground (with the exotic animals) are all new. The walkway/driveway, now paved in concrete, was gravel.

Today, in Khemerat school, the schoolkids are wearing colorful sports clothing--it seems like they're having a sort of sports day. Previously, the sports clothing was only red and green. Besides the school uniforms, only scout uniforms were worn by the students. Now, this playing field was in use in years past, and it extends further to the left.

This sports pavilion was not around when Newt was a student. Then, the kids sought shade under trees. It was fun to see Khemerat School again, and remember times past. All of the sisters had some great experiences here. Newt can vividly recall some of her former schoolmates, though her memories of her teachers (there were only 4 or 5 teachers, and even the principal taught classes) have faded somewhat (she does remember a particularly pretty teacher, who lived a block away from school, and rode her bike to classes--as did all the teachers then. If you click the picture and zoom in, you'll see SUVs parked under the school building).

"Kana An Kitchen", Amphoe Khemerat

12 December 2007, "Kana An Kitchen" in Amphoe Khemerat, Ubon Ratchathani Province. Newt remembers this building (in times past) as having only 1 floor, and having rooms to rent--this was before it became a restaurant. Some 40-odd years ago, a room could be rented for about 50 Baht a month. Sue asked the cook about the previous owners (they lived to the left of the two-story section, to the rear of the glass-display case), but we had to depart before we got the story.

The cook's cooking fires are in the front of restaurant, near the front grill of the pickup truck in the photo. There are display fish tanks in the restaurant proper, and the toilets are to the back, in the storage area.

Kana An Kitchen has excellent chicken with basil.

This seafood soup was also very good. Newt couldn't identify the fish, but thought it might be locally caught from the Mekong river.

This dish featured chicken with cashews, baby corn, and tomatos. It was excellent.

Also, we had a good fish salad, which was tasty, but had a slightly sloppy presentation (unusual for Thailand). All told, the food was very good to excellent, and the price was stunningly low--our entire bill for 5 diners, which included rice, 1 large beer, and 1 soda, came to less than 300 baht.

Mekong River ("Mae Nam Khong"), Ubon Ratchathani Province

12 December 2007, Amphoe Khemerat, Ubon Ratchathani Province. We have our backs to Wat Po, and are looking left down the Mekong River. The bank on the right side of the photo is Laos. The steps inset on the Thai side (close foreground) allow the Thai villagers easy access to the river.


Standing on the Thai-side bank of the Mekong River, looking across toward Laos. Newt says that there is (or used to be) a small Laos village on the far side, but it is beyond the treeline.

Still on the Thai-side bank, but looking right. During Newt's childhood, this bank was more-heavily planted with the villager's vegetable plots (you can see planting furrows running parallel to the river, near the standing man). At that time, the river provided water for the crops, and Newt remembers swimming/bathing in the river, and then picking onions, tomatos, beans, and cabbage afterwards. The kids would ask permission before picking vegetables. The crops were irrigated manually with water from the river in the early morning or late evening. Also, when Newt was a child, cows were not allowed in this area (probably to keep them out of the vegetable plots).

In the center of the photo are the "steps" Newt took to the river for bathing or swimming (about where the boats are tied-up on the riverbank). At the top of the bank, further to the right (out of the photo) is a Thai Immigration office.


A long-tail boat (a "ruer harng"--"harng" translates to "tail") makes its way to the Thai-side bank. In the center of the photo is a border marker, or "sawkaddorng", that appears to be made of concrete. It is in the middle of the river, and marks the official border between Thailand and Laos (you may have to "click" on the photo and open up a larger version, and then "zoom" in the center).

The boats that we saw passed freely over the border (mid-river).

Note: Thais pronounce "Laos" as "Lao", without an ending "s" sound.

Wat Po, Amphoe Khemerat (part 2)

12 December 2007, Wat Po in Amphoe Khemarat, Ubon Ratchathani Province (part 2). The gold, robed Buddha image is elevated, and flanked by portraits of the King. Between the King's portraits are offerings of flowers and candles set on a multi-tiered shelf unit (the 4-level shelf unit has beautiful and intricate mother-of-pearl inlay--it looks to be made of rosewood, or perhaps stained teak). The walls of the sala, or temple, have painted murals…these murals are unusually realistic and colorful.


This is one panel from the various painted murals along the interior of the sala...this one depicts (I think) part of the spiritual journey of Sittata, a royal who left his family to become a monk. The imagery on the right side panel, where he cuts off his hair, we’ve seen before in other temples.

This panel shows later events in the life of Sittata...he walks on a lotus flower, and is seated upon a huge lotus flower, which (we think) symbolizes his enlightened state.


This Buddha image may have special significance, as it sits upon a safe where there is a money slot for offerings. Also, people have been putting gold leaf on the statue--the offering bowl to the left of the image holds orchid blooms. The image does appear old, but no one in our party could recall why it was special, and what importance it held for the Wat and its worshipers.

Wat Po, Amphoe Khemerat (part 1)

12 December 2007: we visited Wat Po in Amphoe Khemarat, Ubon Ratchathani Province (Khemarat was the town in which Newt spent much of her early childhood). This picture is taken from the gate at Wat Po, looking into the temple grounds…to the left is the gold-painted seated Buddha. Straight ahead is the “sala wat,” where the villagers come to pray. To the right is the smaller, more richly decorated “prat bot,” where the monks (“prat” is Thai for monk) pray—the building itself is usually closed to the villagers, except for special events. Normally, lay people are allowed inside the short wall that encircles the prat bot, and can examine the stone tablets or ground markers.


This large, gold-painted seated Buddha was added since Newt was a child in Khemarat. Years ago, this site was a well-head where villagers got drinking water. Today, there are no traces of the well.

The bot at Wat Po in Khemerat.


The covered shelter leads to the sala, where the major Buddha images are kept.
(For more photos of Wat Po in Amphoe Khemerat, Ubon Ratchathani Province, please navigate over to
http://picasaweb.google.com/NewtSea
and check the public gallery...we are adding commentary to the photos, so check back later if the photos are without captions)

Bangkok, Leaving for LA

20 December 2007

Just a quick update, as we have been so busy for the past 6 days here in Bangkok...

We departed Ubon on Friday, 14 Dec, and returned to the Ambassador Hotel in Bangkok.

Travel by Thai Air was much more comfortable than Air Asia, but our reservations were horribly mangled (more on this in a later post).

Montira was so kind to show us around on the weekend...we visited 3 of Bangkok's most important Wats on Saturday (we know...they're all important), and also the Grand Palace. We got a chance to travel by SkyTrain, as well as Bangkok Express Boat. We have loads of photos, and will post some to this blog, and many others to picasaweb.

We had some wonderful, fantastic meals. We took pictures of everything, and will post those within a few days.

Today, we depart Bangkok for Los Angeles. This has been an incredible trip...we visited many family members, made memorial visits to family gravesites, and attended to typical touristy things like sightseeing and shopping. Today, we got not-quite-matching pedicures and manicures.

We have a late-checkout from the Ambassador, and will be checking out in 2 and 1/2 hours. We'll be back on-line in 2 days or so. Until then, "keep on traveling!"

Last Day in Ubon (for this trip)

Newt at Montien's "Sister" Salon.

Newt got a manicure, pedicure, and her hair done at “Sister” (across from “Future Mansion”—the mansion’s sign is Thai script). As usual, Montien did a fantastic job; likewise, she gave Ken a wonderful manicure. We will miss Montien’s expertise (and her upbeat personality).

This evening, we had dinner at “Kaotom Pet” (Diamond Rice Soup)—they also have a wall sign that reads “Suang Sawat.” This huge deep-fried fish was only average—everything else (sweet & sour chicken, chicken omelet, seafood soup, stir-fried cauliflower, fish in oyster sauce with celery leaf) was excellent. Kaotom Pet is just a few doors down from Future Mansion.

Our dinner at Kaotom Pet, or "Diamond Rice Soup"

This feast, plus beer, soda, and rice, came to only 800 baht. The chicken omelet was the best we’ve had this visit, and the seafood soup was the equal-of-the-best, also. We had lots of lottery ticket vendors pass through, as the drawing is this weekend.

Lawan, Putaporn, Sue, Montien, Kung, and Newt at Kaotom Pet.

This is our dinner group, for our last dinner in Ubon Ratchathani for this visit. Tomorrow, we leave for Bangkok on the afternoon Thai Airways flight. Sue will also be traveling to Bangkok. There, we hope to do some sightseeing, some shopping, and visit with Montira again. We’ll also be sampling some more Thai food.

Here in Ubon Ratchathani, the Sri Isan Hotel has a wireless “b” network. We don’t know what we’ll have access to in Bangkok…so it may be a few days before we’re back on-line. Until then, “keep on traveling!”

Amphoe Khemerat, Ubon Ratchathani

Saiyout on the far left, Newt in the yellow shirt.

12 December…today we visited Newt’s childhood home of Khemerat; she lived there from about 6 to 14 years of age. The town has completely changed from those times. For example, this private home was also a restaurant. It was one of Newt’s favorite hang-outs, and she called the owners “Auntie and Uncle,” and a daughter “Saiyout” was a “cousin or sister.” Well…

Sue, Saiyout and Newt talk about their shared childhood.

Saiyout and her husband still own the home, and here she is in the center of the photo! What a happy reunion the sisters had. Lots of reminiscing was going on…the rice fields that Newt’s father farmed have been partially replaced by houses. The distances she remembers as “that was so far to walk” can be driven by car in moments. A generation of children have grown up, and now have their own children (and even grandchildren).

First concrete building in Khemerat.

Newt remembers this as the first concrete building in Khemerat--then, it stood alone. The lower floor was a business that sold a variety of goods, while the upper floor was living quarters. A daughter in the home was one of Newt’s schoolmates. The place is now shuttered, and the family lives in Bangkok.

Large outdoor Buddha statue, Wat Po--added since Newt was a child there.

This outdoor Buddha sits near the front of Wat Po, which is within the town of Khemerat. The Buddha has been added since Newt’s childhood—it is near a well-head where the kids came to get drinking water (the well-head has since gone). The youngest children were afraid to enter the main temple in the Wat, as many scary stories were told about it.

Ban Kam Kueng Keo, Sirinthon (part 2)

Kamtan arrives just before lunch—he has been in Bangkok for the past 2 days. He is off to Khemarat tomorrow. His job really keeps him traveling.

The young people are having a good time. They are such fun to be around.

Lawan and Teng...making sure that everyone gets enough to eat. The sisters were really cooking up a storm.

Group photo.

We didn't take this group photo until a half-dozen folks had wandered off. Still, a good time was had by all. We hope to be "back on the farm" very soon.

Ban Kam Kueng Keo, Sirinthon (part 1)

At breakfast, the sisters decided this would be a fine day to return to Sirinthon (Ban Kam Kueng Keo), and cook lunch for the relatives. Putaporn went off on his motorcyc to borrow his uncle’s truck, while Newt and Lawan went shopping for foodstuffs. Then, after collecting Sue, we were treated to a lovely ride for the 1 and ½ hours it took to arrive at Lawan’s farmhouse.

Newt and Aw in the food prep area (the black puppy is waiting for falling crumbs—I think Lawan’s farm has 6 or 7 dogs; they are usually banned from the food preparation area, but this one was particularly persistent). The food cooking area is off to the left. The menu included pork, chicken, fish, somtam, some type of chicken soup, and some other vegetables. All the ladies were involved in cooking.

Noi is behind the cooking fires. There was also a charcoal fire outside the house proper, but I’m not sure what was cooked on it.

Putapon walks down a train on the the farm. Ken also took another walk through part of the farm. His previous estimate was low, Lawan has between 200 and 300 cashew nut-producing trees. Nearer to the house, she also has about 8 large mango trees, and more than a dozen banana trees. There is at least one jackfruit tree. Three fish ponds have been dug, though only 2 will be stocked (a 55 gal drum holds some fingerlings). Some straw has been cut to make a thatched roof. Also, Lawan has been stockpiling wood beams, planks, and pre-cast concrete piers in order to remodel or expand the farmhouse.